Harvest, drying and curing are the last steps in growing healthy to smoke marijuana and getting the best taste out of your buds
Flushing fertilizers 2-3 weeks before harvest
It is advised that you stop using your cannabis flowering fertilizer 2 weeks before harvest time to ensure that all chemicals are out of the plant. If chemicals are in the plant when you harvest, the smoke will be very harsh. To prevent harshness, flush the plants heavily with fresh water 2 weeks prior to harvesting them. Ensure you flush at least 3 times the capacity of your pot. So a 4 gallon pot would be flushed with 16 gallons of fresh water. From that point water your plants with pure water, absolutely NO additives should be given to the plant. This is especially important if you have been using chemical fertilizers.
This is the time when the bulk of the final, "usable" part of the plant is produced. As you may well already know, there are over four hundred separate chemicals associated with cannabis and her effects. It is during the final bud-building stage that most of these chemicals are produced. Thus, it is very important to give the plant as much pure water as possible during this crucial period. I like to remember it as the "rinse" and "flush" cycle. Simply remember to give the plants only water for the last two to three weeks in order to rinse and flush them clean. This is to purge unwanted impurities from the plant.
Pot that has been fertilized right up to harvest is harsh to smoke, sometimes the joint will even sizzle and pop as unmetabolized fertilizer salts combust. Unflushed pot leaves black ash, is hard to keep lit and burns your throat. Pot which has been organically grown and properly flushed is more flavorful and fragrant, burns easily, leaves grey ash, is easier on the throat and is much more pleasurable to smoke.
Drying marijuana buds generally takes from 2- 6 weeks and curing marijuana can take 2 weeks up to 2 or more months. Drying time also depends on where you live and the place you dry them. Places in a desert would dry them faster, and tropical places would take longer
The first step after harvesting your marijuana buds is the drying process. This can be performed by taking the branches and hanging them up side down so the fan leaves droop and cover the buds. During this step you need to put the branches in a cool dark place (not humid) with enough ventilation. It is good idea to check up on the buds every day to watch for signs of mold and mildew and correct the problem if it happens. After the fan leaves droop down over the flowers and turn crisp or break off easily, you would want to start trimming off the fan leaves only. Even a better way to take off the leaves is to do it before drying the marijuana buds because it it will be much harder to cut off the fan leaves after the buds have dried. So, I recommend you to cut them off before you hang the marijuana branches upside down.
The deal with this method is to dry it slowly but not to fast. If you dry your buds too fast it will make your buds smell like pine needles, hay, or taste bad. Drying the buds too slow in this first step is not a good idea ether because of mold and mildew will attack them. It's very important there's enough air circulation in the room so you can't do it without an electric driven fan.
After the fan leaves are trimmed you want to hang it up to dry again because the marijuana buds will still be moist or wet. They should still have the little inner leaves so they can droop and cover the buds . Hang the branches again in a cool dark place with proper ventilation until the little leaves and bud tips turn crisp when you touch them. It is then time to remove the buds from the branch and remove the rest of the leaf material as best as possible. This is what is referred to as "manicuring" of marijuana buds. But as said before it's better if you do this before you hang them to dry.
At this point the buds should be a little moist, including the inside of them. Some can be smokable at this point, but if you wait till the next 2 processes you can get even better smelling and tasting buds.
Best selling marijuana flowering fertilizers
Complete NPK fertilizer Combination Pack for vegetative growth and blooming phase.
All in One Grow Fertilizer:
Equal amounts of nitrogen (N) and potassium (K). NPK 19 – 10 – 20. Gradually build up from EC 1.6 to 1.8; dissolve about 75 to 100g in 100L tapwater (20ºC). Stir well and if necessary adjust to the optimum pH value 5.8 to 6.5.
All in One Bloom Fertilizer:
High potassium (K) content. NPK 15 – 9 – 30. EC 2.0; dissolve about 100g in 100L tapwater (20ºC). Stir well and if necessary adjust to the optimum pH value 5.8 to 6.5.
Details: 0.04 lbs
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NEEM OIL is efficient against insects in any larval or pupal state, indicated for ecological plant cultivation.
This product is recommended for the ecological control of larvae of species such as diptera, coleoptera, lepidopterans, thysanopterans, hemipterans, orthopterans and nematodes. As a natural product it produces no risk to human health or the environment. It may be mixed with other insecticides provided the PH level does not exceed 7.
By spraying of foliage: 1-0 to 2.0 cc. per liter of water, wetting the whole plant. Repeat the does if neccessary every 15 days.
Price: $ 16.18
PYRETHRIN EXTRACT is an ecological insecticide, obtained from natural plant extracts (crysantemun piretrum). Characteristics include rapid action on contact, low toxicity for mammals, birds and aquatic life, and a low risk of resistance. It does not leave any residue on the plants treated.
This product is for the ecological control of insects (aphids, plant-lice, woodlice, thysanopters, white ant flies, dust mites, red spiders, nematodes, etc.) without any risks to human health or the environment.
To be used as a spray in a mixture of 1 to 3 cc. per liter of water, wetting the whole plant but ensuring that no drops are left on the leaves.
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Bagging the Marijuana Buds
After the marijuana buds are trimmed (and a little moist still) you would want to dry them some more in the paper bag step. The best choice would be the brown shopping bags found at a supermarkets, because they are not bleached (the stuff you don't want in your buds) This is another tricky step. Put the trimmed marijuana buds in the brown bag loosely and its best not to fill it more than 3-4 inches from the bottom. It is not necessary at this time to close the bag ( still need to prevent mildew and mold) When the buds are in the bag you would want to check every day to rotate the buds in the bag so they dry evenly. This can be achieved by shifting positions of the marijuana buds, turning them ever so often, or shaking the bag. As the buds dry they will naturally compact into the self-preserving state that is mostly desired . At this time that the buds can be more compacted together and the bag can be folded close. They should now be fully smokable, though perhaps still ! slightly moist in the middle. A big reminder that every climate differs and may take more or less time. There is nothing better than repeated, hands-on checking to prevent damage to the marijuana buds from mold and mildew.
Curing the Marijuana Buds
The last step is to create a way to bring out the full flavor and best smoke from the marijuana buds. This can be done by using an air tight jar or similar. Put the dried buds into the jar loosely (do not compact them) and cover them. It is very important in the early jar-stage to check the buds at least once a day to replace the air, take them out(this helps dry evenly) and put them back in a different order. This should be done for 7 to10 days then it can be done lest often. After 7 days all you need to do is open the jar and check the buds on a daily basis for mold and mildew. If mold and mildew is found in this step. Take the buds with mold or mildew out of the batch (throw away) and put the rest back in a brown bag for a few more days then the jar step can be repeated. This step can take from 2 weeks to 2 months depending on how you want you buds to develop its distinctive characteristics. The longer the better.
A bud is completely dry, cured, and ready for consumption when the stem in the middle of the bud snaps easily with the fingers. The snap is easy to detect with practice. The marijuana buds now can be sealed and stored for a really long period of time.
The most rewarded variety of recent years in Holland. The plants are white of THC-glands, even on big parts of the fan leaves. A very soft smoke and great "High". One of a kind, the winner of the Cannabis Cup 1995. This plant is the strongest among the weed species. A short plant with rather few leaves.
Flowering Period: 8 weeks
Yields: up to 400gr
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This one is especially developed for Skunk lovers, like Skunk Special above. Skunks and their Afghani ancestors have been crossed for this one. Brush against this plant and the room becomes immediately filled with a powerful Skunk aroma. Despite the smell a very pleasant high with a little body to it. One of the winners of the 1990 High Times Harvest Festival where it clearly defeated Skunk #1.
Flowering Period: 7-8 weeks
Yields: up to 300gr
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Price: $ 38.00
New York City Diesel has its roots in the Big Apple. It's famous for its exotic ripe red grape smell and taste. The result of the best selection is a higher yield up to 15% without loosing his powerfull exotic qualitys. New York City Diesel won 2nd place in the category for Best Sativa Strain in the High Times Cannabis Cup in 2001, 2003 and 2004.
Flowering Period: 10 weeks
Yields: up to 400gr
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Price: $ 71.50
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